Match of the week

 Ox cheek (again) and Jumilla

Ox cheek (again) and Jumilla

I know I talked about ox cheek a couple of weeks ago (with nero d’avola) but here it is again in an even better combination with Jumilla at a lunch hosted by wine importers Morgenrot at Bar 44 in Bristol.

Jumilla, for those of you who are not familiar with it, is a full-bodied red from the south-east of Spain based on the monastrell (mourvèdre) grape. This wine was the 2016 Goru 38 Barrels, a blend of monastrell and cabernet sauvignon. You can buy the 2015 version from Ake & Humphris in Harrogate.

What was clever about the match - part of a six course lunch in which all the pairings were really well thought out - was that it involved three elements that played to the rich almost porty sweetness of the wine: the braised ox-cheek which was cooked in red wine, calçots (which are basically young leeks and have a natural touch of sweetness) and an unctuously creamy cauliflower purée. Sipped alongside these rich, sweet and savoury ingredients (there was also a slice of aged sirloin) the Jumilla kicked beautifully into touch.

Given the other good matches which you’ll find on the site, it suggests that ox cheek (or tail for that matter) is the perfect match for the strong sweet reds that are so popular right now. And for other mourvèdres.

Try this delicious José Pizarro recipe for ox cheek

Pasta with Stilton and onion sauce and a new wave Spanish red

Pasta with Stilton and onion sauce and a new wave Spanish red

When I’m not writing about food and wine matching I’m writing a book - and a blog - about budget eating called The Frugal Cook. So this week’s match is a chance discovery with a scratch supper I knocked up last night (for which you can find the recipe on the blog)

Frankly I didn’t expect the wine to work but it was the only bottle I had to hand and being in frugal mode it seemed extravagant to open another. It was a gutsy blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah called 1707 made by Hacienda El Espino from the relatively unknown denomination of Almansa (famous for a battle after which this range is named).

The reason it worked was that the bitterness of the cheese was offset by the onion, which had been well-fried, the creaminess of the sauce to which I’d added a dollop of Greek yoghurt and, of course, the pasta. The wine, which was a 2003 vintage, had also had time to mature so there were no obtrusive tannins

It’s stocked in the UK by the Real Wine Company which has a very intelligent method of suggesting food pairings which is to link their wines to recipes on the BBC website. They suggest the wine will go with Stuffed Paupiette of Beef with red wine sauce, Nigella Lawson’s Tagliatelle of Chicken (it is a good pasta wine) and Keith Floyd’s Bread and Vegetable Hotpot with added chorizo (from Floyd in Spain).

To those I’d add gastropub favourites like lamb shanks and sausage and mash with onion gravy.

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